Category: Uncategorized

  • Parliamentary uproar: 3 February

    Parliamentary uproar: 3 February

    It may not compare with the continuing Westminster circus but there has been uproar in the Spanish parliament. The ruling coalition was trying to get it’s labour reform bill through but was faced with very tight numbers. On the day of the vote, 2 members of the UPN party switched at the last moment – in defiance of the whip – to voting no instead of yes.  On top of which, an opposition party (PP) member, by mistake, voted yes instead of no! The net result was that the bill passed by a single vote. The unfortunate PP deputy first claimed there was a computer error (he voted remotely, not in the chamber), then that he has been suffering from gastroenteritis. Both of which alibis were seen to be as convincing as the famous “I didn’t know it was a party …” And the rogue UPN members were accused of having been bought …

    Context: the reforms are necessary conditions for Spain to receive €12 billions of pandemic recovery funds from the EU.

     

  • Valencia 2022: 25 January to 6 February

    Valencia 2022: 25 January to 6 February

    Tuesday, 25 January: Luz to Alcocebre

    It’s a long way round to get into Spain, considering that the border is only some 20km south of Luz, but it’s always a thrill to emerge from the Bielsa tunnel onto the long sweeping Spanish roads.

    Got to Alcocebre around 18:00 to stay with my long-time friends, Ángel and Elsa, and their son, Javiér. We haven’t seen each other since they came through Luz in August 2019, so it’s a pleasure to get together again. We met in 1990 in Holland when Ángel and I were working at the EPO. They stayed there longer than I did and are now in the process of moving to Valencia, living temporarily in their beach flat 2 hours north on the coast in Alcocebre while the new flat, in a superb location on the bank of the old river, is being renovated.

    Wednesday, 26 January: Alcocebre

    Ángel and I went for a local bike ride through the country lanes: fields of artichokes, and oranges and mandarines everywhere on the ground.

    Thursday, 27th

    Started off with a short run along the beach path with Javiér, enjoying the rhythm of having the same stride. Then Ángel and I put the bikes in the back of his car and drove to Bencássim, where we left the car and rode back to Alcocebre along the former railway track. It’s a popular route, complete with several tunnels and plenty of views of the sea. Also virtually flat all the way. This is the (partial) Strava report. We then changed and drove with Elsa in my car back to Benicássim for lunch. The Covid pass protocol was strictly applied in the restaurant, so it took 20 minutes for us all to get seated.  Absolutely had to try the artichoke and squid paella!  They also introduced me to Carajillo – rum heated with cinnamon, orange peel and sugar on the bottom, topped off with espresso in a shot glass. Rocket fuel!

    Friday, 28th, Valencia

    Moving day to Valencia where my AirBnb rental starts. Again, we used 2 cars and Ángel guided me through the manic city traffic. First stop was the new flat to see the architect and project manager. It’s a major piece of work but which will give space, lilght and views over the city.

    Met the owner and got the keys for my  flat – all straightforward. It is just inside the old city centre, which is a maze of narrow and short streets. The photos on AirBnB give a reasonable impression, apart from the fact that, although there are windows on 2 sides, it is a lot darker inside than it looks. Well renovated (including central heating) and fully equiped. For lunch we met up with their daughter, Maria, a physiotherapist working and living in Valencia. She also helped me sort out how to work the rental bikes that you can hire for short trips. More on this later …

    Saturday 29th

    Angel and Elsa left in the morning and very generously gave me the key to their secure underground parking. The closest café/restaurant is literally downstairs and they do a lunch menu for €7.50 – a tapa, like tortilla, to start, chicken paella for main dish, fruit/ flan/ice cream for desert. A definite winner!

    Monday 31st

    Headed to the Central Market, justly famous for its spectacular glass-domed building and the huge range of food stalls. Found Marcona almonds and Malaga raisins (elsewhere called Moscatel), jamón and cheese …

    Tuesday 1 February

    Trip to La Albufera nature reserve, a major birding spot, 40km round trip. The route is almost entirely on separate bike paths, heading down the Turia gardens past the dramatically modernistic City of Arts and Sciences buildings and  turning south along the coast. It turned out that the reserve was  disappointing – not a great variety and the more interesting birds were a long way away. However, always good to see and hear Mediterranean species again, like Serin and Sardinian Warbler in trees and bushes, and Black-winged Stilts on the lagoons. The number of hunting Marsh Harriers was impressive, too. But … although the rental bikes are practical and easy to use they are very heavy, with solid tyres, no suspension and hard saddles, meaning that they are a bad choice for a longer ride.

    Wednesday 2nd

    Stayed local. Spent some time in the café on the little square reading. Finished The Siberian Dilemma, Martin Cruz Smith’s terrific recent novel in the Arkady Renko series, and started a highly recommended novel by Irene Vallejo called El Silbido del Arquero (which, I think, translates literally into The Archer’s Whistle, though that sounds disticnctly clunky) which will at any rated test my Spanish chops. After which, there is more from “Jay” who is still adding to her Phoenix Enigma series. Click here to see the whole impressive library shelf – and even pick up a free download.

    Thursday 3rd

    Morning run along the old bed of the Túria river. This was a real treat. In 1957 the original river flooded seriously, causing 81 deaths, at which point the city took the inspired decision to re-route it south of the city and convert the now dry river bed into an extended park, 12 km long, planted with trees, laid out with walking and bike paths, plus other sport installations.  Brilliant!

    Lunch on the square – fried fish plate with grilled artichokes, and a carajillo  to finish …

     

     

  • Tour de France

    Tour de France

    The route ran from Pau round to Bagnères, up the Tourmalet via la Mongie, down through Luz, then up to the finish at Luz Ardiden. David Gaudu was leading when they came through Luz but was caught on the final climb, with Pogačar beating Vingegaard and Carapaz to the line. Cav, surrounded by his Wolfpack Pretorian Guard, made the time cut.

  • Troumouse on e-bikes

    Last year when Richard came to stay we rode the Tourmalet on e-bikes, so this year we switched to the Cirque de Troumouse. A beautiful day, fairly quiet once we left the Gavarnie road at Gèdre. We stopped at Soas for coffee then rode up to the cirque, appreciating the fact that the final, very steep and twisting section is now car-free.

    On the way down we stopped again at the charming Soas café/restaurant for a delicious mushroom omelette. Back in Luz still with plenty of juice left in the batteries, and we finished off with home-prepared steak tartare – our best ever – and chips from the local take-away.

  • Jazz – Oloron then Marciac

    First time at the Oloron jazz festival where we (Pete, Jude, Sam, Richard) saw the Charly Rose trio – a local band that is getting national acclaim, followed by the well-known Robert Fonseca piano trio. The first set was fast and furious, navigating original and demanding material with confidence. The second was very accomplished but for me rather formulaic, and with too much “Are you having a good time? … “I can’t hear you …” from the stage.

    Summer 2021 - 8 of 41

    In spite of Covid, the Marciac festival did go ahead, – albeit on the thin side, with fewer American or European bands than normal. Masks and distancing measures and the Pass Sanitaire required, and the town was much quieter than usual. The middle of the square where bands play throughout the afternoon was caged off, somewhat detracting from the atmosphere. Still, we met up there, sat for a while enjoying, among others, a meteoric alto player, whose name we didn’t get and who even did the Roland Kirk trick of playing 2 saxophones at once, skilfully harmonising the melody in thirds.

    The main act, however, was the great Brad Mehldau playing later in the Chapiteau tent in his classic trio (Larry Grenadier on bass, the ever inventive Jeff Ballard on drums). A dazzling set, combining standards, Lennon and McCartney (And I Love Her), and original material. It started raining heavily half way through, so his choice of Here’s That Rainy Day as an encore raised a laugh!

    I was staying, as usual, in the very pleasant and shady Camping du Lac, using the bike to get in and out of town, and – in the absence of the van – experimenting with sleeping in the car – a bit of a squeeze but fine for the odd night. Before the concert we ate, as custom demands, at the legendary Chez Cédric pop-up restaurant. Sam and I shared the epic shoulder of lamb, charred on the outside, pink in the middle …

    All in all, a really memorable festival visit.

  • Seville Marathon (days 39-44)

    Seville Marathon (days 39-44)

    We packed a lot in over a long weekend built around the race on the Sunday that Michael and Catherine were running in.

    I was the first to arrive on the Wednesday, followed on Thursday by Michael, Catherine, Satch, Amara and Layla, and later by my old friend François, who has known the family for years, and finally Anne and Rich on Saturday. All our AirBnBs were in the same area, Traina, on the west bank, which has a lively buzz, and with far fewer tourists than in the main part of the city on the other side of the river:

    Friday: Catherine and Michael did the race check-in then we took a gentle boat trip up and down the river, strolled the excellent Triana market, tapas for lunch …

    Mega chocolate and churros:

    Saturday: Anne and Rich arrived at the end of lunch, then we strolled around the Maria Luisa park, taking it all very easy. For dinner later (kitchen doesn’t open until 8pm) we had a legendary lobster paella (François, Anne and me):

    Race day started early for the runners, and the rest of us went to different points on the course to cheer them on. Thanks to their GPS chips we had a rough idea of where they were and Satch plotted our own route so that we could be in position when they passed:

    Marathon Sevilla_2020

    Great results for them both: a Personal Best for Michael in 3:13:47, and a strong time from Catherine in under 4 hours.

    13,500, starters, 10,299 finishers …

    Back at Catherine and Satch’s we had a celebratory glass of bubbly ( courtesy of François) to celebrate the great occasion (and to wish Layla an early Happy Birthday) :

    Crew 2

    … then went out to eat:

    dinner outside

    On Monday, Rich went off early for a long run (22km) and Anne and I ran a river loop down, across a bridge, up the other side, back across and finish.  The city caters very well for runners, cyclists, scooters, not to mention rowers and canoeists, and there were many other people out running on the riverside tracks.

    Departure day for Catherine and family, after which we headed into the old town. I found a bookshop, Anne and Rich climbed to the top of the Setas (largest wooden structure in the world, we are told),  lunch (and outdoor siesta!):

    We then did the highly recommended tour of the cathedral roof, which turned out to be fascinating – lots of detail on the construction of the building (the largest cathedral in Europe by volume). We met the guide at the appointed place who opened a door at the base of a huge pillar which contained the stairs to the first level and then further:

    Fine views on all sides of the city from the top:

    Tuesday was leaving day for the rest of us.

    So, congratulations again to our heroic runners:

    … and thanks to all for making the trip so special.

    ps We were all very impressed with Seville: somewhere to eat and drink every 50m (a pharmacy, too), traffic-light in the central areas making it pleasant to walk, a well preserved historical city with loads of character, from the imposing cathedral to the narrow, winding streets in the old town, and the wide and open waterfront – and we had very warm weather …

    pps A few pictures which I like but didn’t manage to slot in:

     

    Sisters:

  • Days 27-34: Nerja – week 2 at Las Hamacas

    Days 27-34: Nerja – week 2 at Las Hamacas

    We went to an inspiring concert of Flamenco music and danceby Antonio Guerra and his company, in a grogramme called “Flamenco con mayúsculas” or “Flamenco in capital letters”. It turned out to be a total feast of guitar, song, dance and percussion.  They were  7 men (no women), seated most of the time when not dancing: the leader,  2 powerfully emotional singers, a brilliant guitarist producing a flow of melody and rhythm to match the changing pace and mood, and 3 others who provided the clapping rhythmic support. Thundering rhythms, energetic and  inventive dance moves. From such simple ingredients – even using the chairs to mark the beat at one point – they built complex and thrilling numbers, normally ending with a rousing  Olé! from the appreciative audience.

    It looked like a contemporary version of the art, for example, they all wore dark suits and waistcoats instead of matador-style outfits.

    The show closed with a brilliant encore – they all simply came back on and stood around for a relaxed jam, each – even the singers – taking a turn to dance a short feature; it was  obviously that they really enjoying themselves, and the audience loved it.

    ps An oddly dated (and unnecessary) touch was the occasional thin cloud of dry ice pumped in from one side …

    pps Did you spot Jeremy Corbyn in the video? Who would have thought he’s such a good dancer!

    Apart from that, we did a lot of whiling away the time – reading, music practice, Elaine busy writing, editing and publishing, had lunch at the beach, worked on the tan, collected a few more pebbles …

    After much trial and error I fainally managed to get some reasonable flight shots of the Collared Doves that sit on the chimney pots and coo all day:

     

    And this Bird On A Wire/Serin sat and sang loud and clear for us:

    Early start on the last day to get Elaine to the airport for her flight back, and then I set the controls for Seville …

  • Days 21-26: Nerja (Las Hamacas)

    Days 21-26: Nerja (Las Hamacas)

    This is our third visit to Javier’s (AirBnB) place down on the coast as it suits us so well: secluded, large, south-facing terrace, big garden with palms, orange and mandarin trees, close to the beach, short drive/walk to town, beach café/restaurant nearby, fast internet, reasonably well-appointed kitchen … He’s done it up a bit since our last stay 2 years ago – new furniture indoors and on the terrace.

    The weather is now mainly warm and sunny, so we have been doing a lot of hanging in the garden during the day.

    Hamacas

    Did a couple of short morning runs, one along the beach (picking up some of the lovely smooth and sparkling pebbles on the way) and the other up the Rio Seco which must meet the sea underground, as it disappears just short of it:

    Paid another visit to the Guadalmar nature reserve next to Malaga airport. Lots of Crag Martins zooming around over the ponds (more used to seeing them in summer in Luz), some distant blue-beaked White-headed Ducks – a local speciality – and lots of noisy Monk Parakeets, and a chirpy Fan-tailed Warbler,  (plus a juicy little octopus for lunch):

     

  • Days 7-20: Órgiva

    Days 7-20: Órgiva

    Órgiva is a town in the Alpujarra range, south of the Sierra Nevada with the imposing Mulhacen (3,478m), and Granada, some 125km east of Malaga. It came to wide attention as the home of Chris Stewart, who briefly preceded Phil Collins as the drummer in Genesis and whose book “Driving Over Lemons” (subtitled “An Optimist In Andalusia”), about moving out and living here in the 1990s, was a big seller.  There is a pleasantly alternative and cosmopolitan vibe in the area provided by the many visitors and ex-pats from further north. The names on the letterboxes of houses on the roads out of town are often English, German or Dutch. It is also on the hippy map, and there is the occasional crusty begging on the street. We know from before that the covered market is a treat, with a general shop for organic fruit, veg, serious bread, a range of hard and soft cheeses … and a stall with amazing salted almonds and the huge Muscatel dried and pippy grapes (must stock up before leaving).  And the people are friendly, in particular, our AirBnB host …

    The farm is on the edge of town and our digs are a ground floor apartment of a 2-storey building, with a medium-sized living room and kitchen, 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. All fairly simple, a bit dingy, but ok.  No heating but a large fireplace and a stack of wood outside. Lots of wood, brick and small window , and tiled floors (no carpets) throughout:

    Our AirBnB host, Cecilio, is an organic farmer, growing a range of veg and specialising in blackberries, from which come excellent jam, olive oil  and  vinegar.

    Fresh Lettuce

    The first week was rather dull and cloudy, so we hardly budged.  We did go back the Baraka restaurant – the only place where I was once moved to write a TripAdvisor review. Their beef couscous and chicken tajine are still as tasty as we remembered from 2 years ago. Loads of tender meat with a whole range of veg and fruit: potato, carrot, almonds, prunes …

    We both did a run from the farm down the Rio Seco, accompanied by the friendly farm dog, to where the smaller river meets the main one, and back. Easy downhill but – no surprise! – tougher coming up. https://www.strava.com/activities/3033080308

     

     

    On a different subject,  Jay’s January newsletter just arrived.

    In the second week the weather improved dramatically and we took advantage of the blue sky to drive up to the end of the road at Capileira and do a good walk along the forest trails.

    Capileira
    Capileira

    Excitment of the week was the arrival of 150 hungry sheep and goats to strip the left-over foliage from the greenhouse, which they did in spectacularly efficient style. The scene before and after:

     

    Arriving and leaving:

     

    Some mixed plant/farm/tree shots: