Tuesday, 25 January: Luz to Alcocebre
It’s a long way round to get into Spain, considering that the border is only some 20km south of Luz, but it’s always a thrill to emerge from the Bielsa tunnel onto the long sweeping Spanish roads.
Got to Alcocebre around 18:00 to stay with my long-time friends, Ángel and Elsa, and their son, Javiér. We haven’t seen each other since they came through Luz in August 2019, so it’s a pleasure to get together again. We met in 1990 in Holland when Ángel and I were working at the EPO. They stayed there longer than I did and are now in the process of moving to Valencia, living temporarily in their beach flat 2 hours north on the coast in Alcocebre while the new flat, in a superb location on the bank of the old river, is being renovated.
Wednesday, 26 January: Alcocebre
Ángel and I went for a local bike ride through the country lanes: fields of artichokes, and oranges and mandarines everywhere on the ground.
Thursday, 27th
Started off with a short run along the beach path with Javiér, enjoying the rhythm of having the same stride. Then Ángel and I put the bikes in the back of his car and drove to Bencássim, where we left the car and rode back to Alcocebre along the former railway track. It’s a popular route, complete with several tunnels and plenty of views of the sea. Also virtually flat all the way. This is the (partial) Strava report. We then changed and drove with Elsa in my car back to Benicássim for lunch. The Covid pass protocol was strictly applied in the restaurant, so it took 20 minutes for us all to get seated. Absolutely had to try the artichoke and squid paella! They also introduced me to Carajillo – rum heated with cinnamon, orange peel and sugar on the bottom, topped off with espresso in a shot glass. Rocket fuel!
Friday, 28th, Valencia
Moving day to Valencia where my AirBnb rental starts. Again, we used 2 cars and Ángel guided me through the manic city traffic. First stop was the new flat to see the architect and project manager. It’s a major piece of work but which will give space, lilght and views over the city.
Met the owner and got the keys for my flat – all straightforward. It is just inside the old city centre, which is a maze of narrow and short streets. The photos on AirBnB give a reasonable impression, apart from the fact that, although there are windows on 2 sides, it is a lot darker inside than it looks. Well renovated (including central heating) and fully equiped. For lunch we met up with their daughter, Maria, a physiotherapist working and living in Valencia. She also helped me sort out how to work the rental bikes that you can hire for short trips. More on this later …
Saturday 29th
Angel and Elsa left in the morning and very generously gave me the key to their secure underground parking. The closest café/restaurant is literally downstairs and they do a lunch menu for €7.50 – a tapa, like tortilla, to start, chicken paella for main dish, fruit/ flan/ice cream for desert. A definite winner!
Monday 31st
Headed to the Central Market, justly famous for its spectacular glass-domed building and the huge range of food stalls. Found Marcona almonds and Malaga raisins (elsewhere called Moscatel), jamón and cheese …
Tuesday 1 February
Trip to La Albufera nature reserve, a major birding spot, 40km round trip. The route is almost entirely on separate bike paths, heading down the Turia gardens past the dramatically modernistic City of Arts and Sciences buildings and turning south along the coast. It turned out that the reserve was disappointing – not a great variety and the more interesting birds were a long way away. However, always good to see and hear Mediterranean species again, like Serin and Sardinian Warbler in trees and bushes, and Black-winged Stilts on the lagoons. The number of hunting Marsh Harriers was impressive, too. But … although the rental bikes are practical and easy to use they are very heavy, with solid tyres, no suspension and hard saddles, meaning that they are a bad choice for a longer ride.
Wednesday 2nd
Stayed local. Spent some time in the café on the little square reading. Finished The Siberian Dilemma, Martin Cruz Smith’s terrific recent novel in the Arkady Renko series, and started a highly recommended novel by Irene Vallejo called El Silbido del Arquero (which, I think, translates literally into The Archer’s Whistle, though that sounds disticnctly clunky) which will at any rated test my Spanish chops. After which, there is more from “Jay” who is still adding to her Phoenix Enigma series. Click here to see the whole impressive library shelf – and even pick up a free download.
Thursday 3rd
Morning run along the old bed of the Túria river. This was a real treat. In 1957 the original river flooded seriously, causing 81 deaths, at which point the city took the inspired decision to re-route it south of the city and convert the now dry river bed into an extended park, 12 km long, planted with trees, laid out with walking and bike paths, plus other sport installations. Brilliant!
Lunch on the square – fried fish plate with grilled artichokes, and a carajillo to finish …
RB's journal 
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